An Artist and a Biker Go to New Orleans

Well, after all that driving we now had to do some more! Our time in Key West was heaven, but I was really looking forward to New Orleans. It was my Dad’s favorite city and I was lucky to spend 2 weeks there in the 90’s when I was in high school. My dad’s sister (one of my favorite aunts!) lived there. I adored going around the city with her and my grandparents!

On the way we stayed in a motel right on the Suwanee River – it was so lovely I painted it. And do you know what? Their cicadas in Florida are already out and singing! Ours aren’t hatched and rejoicing till very late in June. I was jealous! (I love cicada song.)

Way down upon the Suwanee River…
My painting of the river.

It was sad when we came into New Orleans. She’s been through a lot. But I kind of forgot that she is a big city and she has big city troubles (mainly crooked government) along with a lot of her people (drugs). We soon had to put that behind us though as we drive on the worst streets and roads ever! We hit potholes so big I think my soul left my body! I get that the land is swampy and that makes roads crumble quickly, but maybe spend less money painting arty fluff under bridge overpasses and more money filling holes and resurfacing. But it all goes back to the corruption.

Our hotel (front) The St. Charles Coach House and behind the famous Hotel Ponchatrain on St. Charles Ave. The streetcars ran on a track in the median.

After you get used to those things you start to see all the great things and I remember those things the best anyways. The food, music, cultures, cemeteries, and oh my heart- the architecture! House after gorgeous house, even tiny shotgun houses were beautiful! I was in house heaven let me tell you.

Anne Rice’s former orphanage home. (This includes the huge brick structure behind the main house too!) And yes, I took a lot of pictures from our truck.
Loved drawing all my favorite architectural features, and houses.

Our hotel was charming and lovely! Another recommendation! It was the St. Charles Coach House- an old Packard Car dealer building and their mechanic’s garage as parking (free!) for hotel guests. My Dad would have been so tickled about that as he loved old cars. He passed away in 2002 though.

Our view from the Hotel Ponchatrain rooftop bar.

Thankfully we were in a nice neighborhood- we drove through a lot of really bad places there. (Thanks Google maps! They always want you to turn into a bad neighborhood and drive through it to turn around if you miss a turn. Ugh!)

The food was great too with the freshest seafood, prepared in many delicious French and Cajun ways- we tried everything! Even Italian Muffelata sandwiches from the grocery store where they were invented! We could not stay away from Cafe duMonde and my hubs now drinks their chicory coffee in the mornings. And many times walked to restaurants and places for refreshments.

Best sandwich I’ve ever eaten- Muffuletta! Perfect with Zapp’s chips and a Diet Dr. Pepper!
Inside Cafe DuMonde

Beignets and chicory cafe au laits! Delicious!

We had our anniversary dinner here. We were going to eat at Commander’s but hubs didn’t bring dress pants or a jacket and they were strict! He had nice resort wear, but that wasn’t enough! But this place was romantic and lovely and the chef trained with Paul Prudhomme so it was great!

At Brigtsen’s (pronounced Brightsen’s) we had our 25th anniversary dinner. It was lovely! The seafood sampler was divine and Hub’s crab crusted fresh-caught fish was excellent too. We always share a creme brulee when we can and theirs did not disappoint!

Here are some other fun things:

I loved the streets- even though they were totally wonky as the original ones lined up with the river. It was so cool to see a whole city history through street signs!

There were working gas lights on buildings in the French Quarter. I absolutely loved this. It made me so happy to see historic gas lamps! I would have lived to see them at night…

See them under the first story roof overhang?

We took 2 trips in the area one day- to the amazing Tabasco factory on Avery Island and to Oak Alley Plantation.

First, we drove the old river road next to the Mississippi levies and saw many old plantation houses and sugar cane fields. We chose to visit Oak Alley for its beauty. This is the path from the river road to the front door.
These live oaks are sooo old. Over 150 years. Slaves moved 10 year old trees into place to make this alley. It was jaw-droppingly gorgeous. This plantation house was Brad Pitt’s (Louie’s) at the beginning of Interview with the Vampire.
These huge columns are just brick barrels covered in plaster and painted. Ours are just wood, painted. The house was well cared for and gorgeous, but we didn’t get to see many rooms which was disappointing.
They were restoring one of those great columns at the back of the house. Here you can see the red brick.
Then, we went to Avery Island where we toured the Tabasco facilities. We had great food at their restaurant too. The Tabasco Plant was a lovely Victorian factory.
Oak barrels packed with peppers and a layer of salt on top. The peppers for Tabasco sauce cure in these barrels for 3 years.
At the end of our tour we had free Tabasco ice cream. It was good but weird! It was a raspberry tabasco sauce in vanilla.

The day after that we planned to go to cemeteries and to go back to the French quarter, but first? A hit and run accident! Why. The other vehicle had no license plate and was probably stolen. It took us 30 minutes to get someone in non-emergency to answer the phone and we were hung up on twice! What a joke this place has turned out to be.

Our “new to us” truck all smashed.

We ended up going to Metarie Cemetery- honestly the nicest one there. It was lovely.

I just happened to spot Anne Rice’s family mausoleum.

Most of the cemeteries were NOT well-kept. I was pretty angry about that. Especially since they charge you $20 to see them. Where does that money go!?!

St. Louis No. 2
Clear the weeds from the tops of the vaults! Geez.
St. Louis No. 1 from the highway.
Sad and neglected but being used for money.
The walls of St. Louis No 1 are also vaults so they are very thick. We did not go in. I refuse to give my money to people who are obviously lining their pickets with it and not maintaining the cemetery.
The COOLEST Victorian funeral hearse was in this gee-gaw shop in the French Quarter. Wow.

On our last day we went to a wonderful afternoon tea at a 4 star hotel, the Windsor Court. It was my favorite thing we did in New Orleans! And I’m so glad we did this and did not leave with a bad taste in our mouths from the accident.

I will write more about this magical meal in a separate post!
Had to “art” the afternoon tea on the way home.

Finally, it was time to go. Honestly after the accident we were ready, but thankfully New Orleans sent us off on a cloud of tea sandwiches, pastries, scones, and champagne…

We stayed with friends in Houston on our way out. Of course we hit all the Bucees we could find on our trip.

Total trip miles: 4,000!!!

Hallelujah we are home!

Travel-weary from Kansas Street,

Jaime

Oh we did. We did.

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